Leg 01
From: Ushuaia,Argentina
To: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Egyptian Minister of Foreign Affairs.
Presentation of Pan American Crossing Plan
Monday January 18, 2016 Cairo Egypt.
Swiss Ambassador Markus Leitner.
Farewell party Swiss Ambassador residence
Wednesday February 24, 2016 Cairo Egypt.
February 26 / March 21 - Zürich.
Did you ever try to pack stuff for four months? Most experienced travelers will tell you it is not an easy job, which is absolutely true.
Now add limited packing space, all necessities you may need including some highly nutritious snacks, and just to make it more challenging allow for a couple of extra weeks, and you have a task close to that faced by astronauts in their space missions.
When done, Sherif has to end up with three small size bags, each one need to fit perfectly in the right, left or central compartment of the bike; one additional bag is a duplication of the top necessities which will be carry-on luggage just in case the other is late or even worst just lost.
Is that all? No, a couple of spare tires will also be carried on top along with two extra high rodes to hold the two flags.
Now the bike is ready for packing and shipment by air from Zürich to Buenos Aires then by land till the end of the world, Ushuaia some three thousand kilometers further down south.
If all goes well, Sherif should be starting his adventure on time .. Inchallah.
Finally, it was time to pack the white lady.
The bike net weight is 495 kg; the gross weight along with tool box and spare tyres came to 661 kg including the outer woden box.
The dimensions are the maximum as specified by the airline to fit safely in the cargo space.
The bike finaly left Thursday 17 March after some unecessary delay in meeting woden box measurements.
The bike left to New York on Swiss flight and from there to Buenos Aires.
Tuesday March 22 - Buenos Aires.
Leaving Zürich Monday at noon to Madrid Spain, Sherif arrived at 4:00 a.m. to Buenos Aires after a long 13 hours flight.
Arriving at such an early morning hour and exhausted from the long day.
It will take him and the staff of the Egyptian Embassy a lot to clear the bike from customs.
More delay is caused by the long 4 days week end.
Monday March 28 - Buenos Aires
Bike finally cleared and received from customs.
Unloading the bike still inside its wooden box from Zürich.
Unpacking the bike.
Uploading the bike again in the DHL van that will carry it to Ushuaia.
The van left same day, Sherif will meet them at Rio Callegos before crossing the Chilean border as he should be with the bike in person.
And on top, the happy DHL crew celebrating the end of a hectic mission.
Sunday April 3 - Ushuaia
Sherif arrived late Saturday and missed Honda/DHL agent which was closed since noon. He was forced to delay departure and spend the weekend in Ushuaia. He has to wait till monday to download the bike.
Ushuaia in Tierra Del Fuego Province is the southernmost city in the whole world. It is 150 Km away from Cape Horn which in turn is only a little over one thousand km away from Antartica.
Ushuaia is also a busy port for cruises and tours departing to Antarctica. It is also the starting point of The Ruta Nacional 3 (or National Route) which is a major Argentinian highway stretching from Ushuaia all the way up north till Buenos Aires with a short interruption in Chilean territory crossing The Magellan Straits.
In total the RN 3 is 3,079 kilometers, this will be Sherif's first leg.
The sign also says that Alaska is 17,848 km away, however Sherif will travel close to 30,000 km as he will be crissong from the Atlantic East Coast to the Pacific West Coast twice .
Sarurday April 2 - Ushuaia
Sherif flew from Buenoa Aires on Thursday March 31 to meet the van in Rio Callegos.
They were not allowed to cross the Chilean border as the driver needed a power of attorney to drive the van across the border.
They drove back to Rio Callegos, got the P of A Friday morning and ran back to the border, almost denied entry again as the van not authorized to carry bike !! Finally big happy smiling faces.
Monday April 4 - leg 01.01
Rio Grande - 211 km
The "End of the World" sign was the starting point of this adventure.
A small photo shoot session attended by the mayor of Ushuaia was arranged and Sindbad took off with both flags, Swiss and Egyptian, fluttering behind him.
The bike was finally released into Sherif's custody after a long and tiresome voyage with many setbacks that caused postponing the planed starting date of April first.
The happy Honda /DHL team unloading the bike from the vane and cheering Sherif.
The game is ON.
Tuesday April 5 - leg 01.02
Rio Callegos - 365 km
Cumm. 576 km
From Rio Grande to Rio Callegos - 365 km. That includes crossing the border to Chile, ferry boat over the Strait of Magellan and crossing the border back to Argentina.
The 200 km on the Chilean side are mostly gravel road, the strong wind damaged the flags; Sherif had to struggle against strong cross wind and bad road conditions to keep his balance with his half a ton bike.
The ferry boat ride offered some rest but by the time he reached the Chilean border, Sherif had to find some place to stop and refuel his bike. A friendly officer gave hime assistance and shelter.
It is said that Magellan named the area the Patagonia after its unusually tall inhabitants; the Portuguese explorer and navigator Ferdinand Magellan became the first to successfully navigate the straits on November first 1520 (known before as The Dragon's tail), during his global circumnavigation voyage.
Guanacos (Lama guanicoe)accompanied Sherif for a while; offering him company in his lonely trip.
This species is still considered wild; they are the parent species of the domesticated Lama.
Wednesday April 6 - leg 01.03
El Calafate - 306 km
Cumm. 882
Getting deeper into Patagonia land, Sherif continued to struggle against strong cross wind and bad road conditions, he covered the relatively short distance of 300 km in 6 hours with one hour rest.
الرحله دي في الامريكيتين هايروح ألاسكا من الأرجنتين
هيعمله يجي تلاتين الف كيلو ما هو ماشي بطول قارتين
وصل أنهارده الكالافات بصعوبه بيقولك الجو هوا و لا برد طوبه
راح مشرب الوايت ليدي و هايخدله هو راحه مطلوبه
الرحله متقسمه كذا حته و كل لما شريف يخلص حته
وهو مريح بعد التعب هأكتب انا فالزجل حته
ابو محمود و شوشو البقيه الحته الجاي
5 أبريل ٢٠١٦
The Los Glaciares National Park is the third largest reservoir of fresh water in the world (after Antartica and Greenland); it is considered by many as the eighth wonder of the world.
The Los Glaciares National Park is located in the southwest of the Province of Santa Cruz. A blanket of ice covers this protected area of 600,000 hectares. Among the 356 glaciers, the Perito Moreno is the most imposing with over 5 km front, 30km long and 60m above sea level high; it inches forward up to 2m per day and is one of the world’s few glaciers that is still growing.
Thursday April 7
اللي بيعمله شريف ممكن يكون حلمي
ده شكله فيلم خيال علمي
ثلوج و بحور أشكال وألوان
شرفت بلدنا و بلد أمك و أمي
أنت كمان من غير صواريخ
رحت علي رأيك علي المريخ
انت كده بتعمل رحله عمر
وواجب عليك بقي التأريخ
انت دخلتنا في معضلة
و عملت بصورك مشكلة
ده في ناس أدمنت اخبارك
فأرجوك خليها مكملة
ابومحمود و شوشو
٨ أبريل ٢٠١٦
Friday April 8
Bad weather forced Sherif to stay for one more day.
Sherif met with a Swiss couple with Off Roader bikes circling Argentina and Chile; he said:
"Met this nice Swiss/Italian couple one block fm my hotel in Calafate. ...They are also driving north but north west on the Chilean side direct to Santiago .. vs I am driving east back to Rio Gallegos then north through Buenos Aires then west to Santiago. Why different routes, they are surely taking the shorter way vs I will pass by both Embassies for a photo shoot maybe a conference with both flags.They surely have the better bikes for the bad roads, with off Roader they can drive anywhere and U turn and are lighter and more flexible, vs I have a smoother, safer and more comfortable bike.Nobody is perfect u just have to set your priorities. The "White Lady" was love من أول نظرةGood luck عليناZurich (ZH) plates vs Aargau (AG)".
رايح كاليتا أوليفيا من جاليجوس سبعمئة كيلو لازم هيدوس
شريف هيسوق سبع ساعات أختشي يا هوا و خليك نانوس
لازم يطّلع شمال سريع ده ألهوا فوشه هيكون مريع
ضروري يكسب ارض بسرعه الجو فساعت هيبقي شنيع
لان لو ألهو لغايه تلاتين اليدي تقول ده احنا جامدين
بس بقي خمسين وزياده اليدي هتقول كده مَش لاعبين
كلنا نتمناله التوفيق لانه وحده علي الطريق
بس الست هتسد معاه لانها بجد نعم الرفيق
ابو محمود و شوشو - ١٠ ابريل ٢٠١٦
Saturday April 9 - leg 01.04
Rio Callegos - 306 km
Cumm.1,188km
Resting and having a drink at Esperanza.
Sunday April 10 - leg 01.05
Porto San Julian - 360 km
Cumm.1,548 km
Magellan first arrived to a natural harbor in Patagonia which he named San Julian, he stopped there for the winter before attempting to negotiate the trails in the spring of 1520; that is November first for the southern hemisphere.
A full scale replica of his imposing vessel "Nao Victoria" is to be found today at the beach of Puerto San Julian.
During the 1982 Falklands War, and being the nearest point to the islands, San Julian airfield was the major base used by the Argentine Air Force.
This cross is found at the entrance of Puerto San Julian.
شريف جلي كاليتا أوليفيا عشان
زاد علي الخطه ساعتين كمان
اللاما بيعدو الشارع كتير
فما وصلش الا لسانچوليان
كاليتا اوليفيا اليوم هدف يتجاب
لو الجو ميبقاش قلاب
ولو ضهره تمام هيحاول يزود
سبعين كيلو و يبقي علي اعتاب
كومودوروًً ريفادافيا يوم الاتنين
يبقي كمل من الكيلوهات ألفين
لازم شريف يهرب مالجو
ويريح فالي وصلها مالبلدين
كل بلد بتاعت ميت الف
يعني فييجي ساعه تتلف
يريح لغايه الجو ما يعدل
و بعدين يبتدي فتالت الف
ابو محمود و شوشو - ١١ ابريل ٢٠١٦
Monday April 11 - leg 01.06
Comodoro Rivadavia - 427 km
Cumm.1,975 km
Arriving at Comodoro Rivadavia, Sherif was grounded for five days due to strong unfavorable winds. Here are his thoughts upon arrival:
Had a good run yesterday and cut over 440 km's fm Puerto San Julian through Caleta Olivia to Comodoro Rivadavia.
The weather was very good with relative low winds and sunshine. With no bad roads and stable weather, I had to struggle with Lamas crossing the road. I never thought I would dislike them.This ride was the calmness prior to the expected heavy winds starting today between Comodoro Rivadavia and Trelew.
Met some locals in Caleta Olivia (transit) and met Petro (Portuguese) in the gas station in Comodoro Rivadavia on his KTM mid way as he is driving south from Montevideo to Ushuaia further north from the west ending in Colombia.
Comodoro Rivadavia is a city in the Patagonian province of Chubut in southern Argentina, located on the San Jorge Gulf, an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, at the foot of the Chenque Hill, the Oil capital.
عملها البطل قبل المشاكل الجويه
وكمل ووصل كومودورو رافادافيه
كده يبقي عمل ألفين كيلو تمام
لقوه ألريح هيريح للجمعه الجايه
ابو محمود و شوشو - ١٢ ابريل ٢٠١٦
Last sun set in Comodoro Rivadavia, I am sure Sherif did not expect that he will be stranded there for five days.
Note that this is the begining of the autumn/winter in the Southern hemisphere; after crossing Argentina and Chile, Sherif will be well into the spring and summer of the Northern hemisphere.
شريف ريح خمس تيام أهو
و هيحاول يوصل أنهارده تريليو
اكمن الجو اتصلح بسيط
و في شويه هوا هيساعدوه
و لما شريف يوصل من غير حكايات
يبقوا ألفين و ربعميه مالكيلومترات
تريليو دي بلد أنشأوها ناس من ويلز
في أواخر القرن قبل الي فات
في تريليو لازم هيريحله يومين
علشان الجو وحش حبتين
اتحسن يا جو لان بويانس لسه
فاضل عليها الف تلتميه و خمسين
ابو محمود و شوشو - ١٧ ابريل ٢٠١٦
الليدي الجميلة ام المتوسيكلات
جابت شريف من غير حكايات
وصل بالسلامه علي تريليو
و قاعد فيها ليوم التلات
The southern prairies (or pampas in Spanish) of the Patagonia region in Argentina are famous for the burst of cold polar air from the west, southwest or south; these winds are called the Pampero.
The Pampero bursts can often exceed 100 km/hour and are usually strongest in the early southern hemisphere summer between October and January; they are also common in winter between May and August.
It is due to those year round prevailing strong winds along with strong unpredictable tidal currents that sailors failed to negotiate the Magallen straits for years in the explorers search for the road to the Spice Islands. The Portuguese explorer and navigator Ferdinand Magellan became the first to successfully navigate the straits on November first 1520 (known before as The Dragon's tail), during his global circumnavigation voyage. Magellan first arrived to a natural harbor in Patagonia which he named San Julian, he stopped there for the winter before attempting to negotiate the trails.
Trelew was established 1886 and is home to Patagonia’s famous Welsh communities, descendants of colonists who still speak Welsh. The town is the starting point for the railway linking the town to Puerto Madryn sea port. It is today a major commercial and industrial center for the region and the main hub for wool processing in Argentina which is shipped and exported through Puerto Madryn.
Puerto Madryn is the world's most perfect place for whale-watching, penguin spotting on the Valdes Peninsula (two hour bus ride from Punta Tombo Penguin Reserve).
Ricardo (old Swiss blood) and Ana, .. and ..
Sunday April 17 - leg 01.07
Trelew - 378 km
Cumm. 2,353 km
A Harley driver hotel receptionist from Texas .. Actually it is all about people
San Antonio Oeste (or West) was established 1905 replacing San Antonio Este (or East); the later was established 1779 as a port city but had to be abondonned due to scarcity of water.
The small 20 thousand inhabitants town is home for fishing and tourism industry, the friendly town has nothing much to offer visitors except - as in the case of Sherif - friendly welcome at town gas station, a transit point where you can wash your cloth and have a fish meal in the town's only restaurant.
On the other hand, reaching San Antonio Oeste was not boring at all having to manoeuvre with the wind, well let's hear about it by Sherif's own words:
Reached San Antonio Oeste thr Sierra Grande after a 340 km's drive in one shot.Was forced to do so as I had 2 windows to bypass the nasty winds which are "chasing me" and "heading towards me"فزورة دة ....... نعم ...Wind speed and gusts easily reaching 70 to 100 km/h during the day (30 - 40 knots). I felt like running or flying between harsh nasty wind pockets. If too late .. the nasty wind behind me will catch up with me ... If too fast ... I'll catch up with the nasty wind ahead....The window was ... To leave the starting point Trelew before 09.00 am to drive to reach mid way Sierra Grande roughly before 12.00 and not to leave Sierra Grande before 12.30 to reach end destination around 14.00 (2pm) latest 15.00 (3pm)!!After that if still on the wheels I'll be shaken till ...Ps.Always keeping in mind the meteo is good but cannot be absolute .. meaning 100% accurate ..Dancing with the winds ... or ..
بطبل للهواء وقولوا أبعد عنى ... برقص بجد ...يا مسهل ...
Tuesday April 19 - leg 01.08
San Antonio Oeste - 322 km
Cumm. 2,675 km
لسان انطونيو اوست رايحين مسافه تلتميه اتنين و عشرين
شريف هيستفيد بالجو الحلو لان بعديها في كام يوم وحشين
لو ماوصلش سان انطونيو اوست حيتزنق فالنص وياخد رست
لحد الجو ما يعدل تاني هيفضل قاعد مع جناب الست
لكن لو وصل سان انطونيو بسلام يبقي عنده احتمال بجد تمام
انه يوصل بويانس إيريس في خلال خمس ست ايام
معظم الطريق ألهوا فالوش ألهوا ده فالودن تملي يوش
ولازم يوصل قبل تلاته العصر لان ألهو التقيل هيخوش
ابومحمود و شوشو - ١٩ ابريل ٢٠١٦
الهوا غير الخطه برضو
فراح شمال علي ريوكلورادو
وبعدينا شرقاً لبهيه بلانكا
ده الفريق المعاون مذاكر أرضه
الجو عطل شريف فالطلوع
بس جت مصلحه لانه كان موجوع
لما صحي كان عنده مغص
اما ريّح شويه ظبط الموضوع
شريف مشي علي اتناشرات
ووصل كولورادو فتلات ساعات
واستني شويه يراقب الجو
و ابتدي بعديها اخر الوصلات
ده الجو الحلو لو يدوم
هيوصل بهيه بلانكا اليوم
يبقي عمل تلتلاف كيلو
انهارده بالليل قبل النوم
باقي سبعميت كيلو عالعاصمة
و رغم الظروف الجويه العارمة
هيوصل أنشالله بيونس إيريس
كده يبقي خلص مرحلة حاسمة
ابو محمود و شوشو - ٢١ ابريل ٢٠١٦
This important sea port in Buenos Aires province is home to about 300k coming from different European origins attracted by its abundant natural resources.
Bahia Blanca means the White Bay after its salt covered shores, the city is also one of the country's major naval bases.
As he was leaving the city Saturday morning, Sherif met with a nice Brazilian couple, Rosane Vargas and Ricardo Oriano are bikers from Floriamopolis on their BMW; here is what Rosane wrot about their encounter (translated from Portuguese):
Sherif Loutfi, friend rider who lives in Cairo that we found on the path and that follows to Alaska, this is strong ..
Sherif was stranded one extra day in this sea port city, however his thoughts went back to the extra day of his previous stop in San Antonio Oeste; this is what he said:
Today in Behia Blanca .. after being stranded for an extra day in San Antonio Oeste yesterday with a very windy Wednesday in a cosy town with nobody to talk to and no language to communicate. I managed to fill the extra day with logging in my thoughts, doing my 60 minutes 2 sq.mtr sport, washing, and the TV interview per phone.Also eating a بنجر salat which my system did not digest! ا ة يا بطنى Here further some pic's of the simple town during daytime. A school ... a street .. Also the translator app to order my dinner yesterday ..You can practically do anything with your smart phone ... يعنى تقريباI'm happy to have كسرت the 3000 km's fm the south tip of Argentina (Ushuaia) through Chilean territory upwards north to Bahia ... exiting the Patagonian area with its sever and harsh windy area to enter the capital Buenos Aires (again) to share my experience with both Embassies.
Thursday April 21 - leg 01.09
Bahia Blanca - 410 km
Cumm. 3,085 km
الجو قعده فبهيه بلانكا فخمول
قعدله يوم و أتحرك علطول
الصبح كان فيه مطر خفيف
وهو في طريقه لبلده أزول
من بهيه لازول تلتميه و تلاتين
كمان تلتميه علي بونيس فاضلين
كل الي هيمشيهم تلتلاف سيعميه
لما يوصل بكره عاصمه الأرجنتين
بكره المرحلة الأولي هتخلص تمام
بيوم آكتر من عشر تيام
يحيي بيظبط الرحله علي الجو
وشريف حقيقي مغامر مقدام
ابومحمود و شوشو - ٢٣ ابريل ٢٠١٦
What was expected to be a quiet transit in a small little town turned out to be an unexpected eventfull day; Azul with a 50 thousand ppopulation was first established as a fortress in 1832 and is today a major cattle raising center for meat exports and home to a dynamic service sector. The famous Spanish writer and Novelist Miguel de Cervantes (The Author of the European first classic novel, Don Quixote) is well celebrated in Azul where The Miguel Cerventus festival is held annualy since 2007, the year the own was declared Argentina's "City of Cervantes by the UNESCO.
On top of that, Sherif was a guest at the world famous "Pollo Club", lest read his words about that:
Sabah el Kheir ..صباح الخيرGute morge ..Good morning ..Buenos dias. ..Yesterday i had a smooth drive fm Bahia Blanca to Azul. Azul, mid station between BB and Buenos Aires.A social day indeed as I met this nice couple, Rosane & Ricardo fm Florianapolis, Brazil on their BMW driving south. We became friends.Later upon entering Azul .. tired and a little lost finding a hotel, a guy approached me while on my bike in front of a gas station .. me .. asking for shelter ... him moto Club .. talked in Spanish tab3aan ... the only word I understood was ... Moto Club??Anyways he got his new bike and made me follow him to this Club ... that's were I met his french friend Patrick (also passing thr). Also a rider (Yamaha) ... Speaking English, I understood the home and club of Pollo is a world famous spot for extreme drivers passing thr to have a bite and drink ... or .. even shelter ...He led me to the Gran hotel were I checked in and later joined him at the club.Being the 1st Egyptian, ever driving solo fm the south tip of Argentina he wanted me to ارفع العلم عالى putting the flags high in front of the club ...I felt honored and we took advantage prior to darkness.Pollo a generous and warm person invited me for dinner and I met his wife, daughter and her friend ...A friendly and welcome experience to be rembered in Azul. .. a town meant to be in transit changed to be remembered for life.A new friend with no common language to communicate ... but with a big heart .. no language was of no bearer....ياما الدنيا مليئة بالمفاجاءات ... وتحيا الأرجنتين ....... ومصر ... وسويسرا .... ... " La Posta " ....e.
The walls at the "Pollo Club" have signatures made by visiting bikers from all over the world and in almost every language, hospitality extends to the most friendly atmosphere including home made meals which in Argentina is meat and meat even if it is breakfast time.
Saturday April 23 - leg 01.10
Azul - 336 km
Cumm. 3,421 km
Sunday April 24 - leg 01.11
Buenos Aires - 300 km
Cumm. 3,721 km
Finally reaching the end of the first leg, Buenos Aires the capital and largest city of the Argentine Republic with a population close to three million.
Buenos Aires was established 1536; the capital name is the Spanish word for Good Winds; a name given by Spanish sailors who arrived to the natural harbor "by the blessings of the Holy Virgin Mary of the Good Winds" to what is today the city of Buenos Aires.
The total distance covered is 3,721 km (mostly using the famous RN3), whereas the distance between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia is slightly over 3,000 km; the difference is due to the visit Sherif made to the Perito Moreno Glacier near Calafate and back (day 3 and day 4).
The distance was covered in eleven days and, other than the day he spent to visit the glacier, Sherif was stranded for ten days due to bad weather conditions prevailing in the Patagonian prairies.
اخيراً يوم الحد الساعة اتنين
يوصل بيونس إيريس فالأرجنتين
دي العاصمة و اكبر مدينة
من سنة الف خمسمية ستة تلاتين
بيونس إيريس بالإسباني
قالوها البحارة في زمن الأماني
معناها الرياح الجيدة
بركه العدرا للوصول من تاني
يجيلهم الحد اغلي ضيف
و المرور ان شاالله يكون ضعيف
رافع العلمين كده في العالي
الحمد علي السلامه يا شريف
ابو محمود و شوشو - ٢٤ ابريل ٢٠١٦
Sherif arrived to Buenos Sunday April 24 and left on Saturday April 30.
Both Embassadors - H.E. Hanspeter Mock the Swiss Embassador in Agentina and H.E. Reda Habib Zaki Embassador of Egypt to Argentina - arranged for receptions and TV interviews during Sherif's short stay.
Monday 25 was for the Swiss Embassy, Wednesday and Thursday 27 & 28 for the Egyptian Embassy; as well as TV interviews for two Argentinian channels and one Egyptian channel.
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